Impeachment, presidential politics, tariffs and trade, the Fed, Hong Kong demonstrations, Iran’s misbehaving mullahs and North Korean missiles dominate the headlines, but as stocks go up, so does the quality—and the number—of the Big Apple’s best places to dine. Never in the city’s history has there been such gastronomical creativity and innovation. Our stellar team of discerning tasters—Forbes’ Chief Content Officer Randall Lane, Forbes contributor Richard Nalley and preeminent media maven Monie Begley, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim—herewith unveil their list of where you can enjoy the city’s most savory comestibles.
Jamel Toppin
Shun is where French and Japanese cooking dazzlingly come together in imaginative and incredible ways to create many new dishes. David Chang’s trophy, Momofuku Ko, is one of New York’s top dining experiences. Patrons sit and watch the cooking team put together the seemingly endless set menu with peerless pacing and fluidity. No matter how many superlatives a person hears about Eleven Madison Park, there is still no way to be prepared for this awe-inspiring happening. Happily sated guests are presented with goodie bags—possibly to ease the pain of maxing out their credit cards. If only there were Five Stars. . . . Worshipping at Atera, a tiny altar of gastronomical greatness, doesn’t come cheaply. This multiple-installment ritual, however, leaves one sublimely contented, the passage of time forgotten. Marea, Michael White’s Italian seafood flagship, sails serenely on. Veteran Four-Star Daniel continues to serve sublime meals in the grand French tradition infused with touches from around the world. Le Bernardin’s theme is oceanic, but the experience is celestial. The founding chef of New York’s most sumptuous restaurant, Del Posto, left two years ago, but under Melissa Rodriguez the beat of beautiful offerings goes on.
Crown Shy: Grilled pear salad, Meredith feta, pistachio
Jamel ToppinCrown Shy, arguably New York City’s best new restaurant of 2019, made a lot of sure-footed decisions with its eclectic menu and soaring, light-filled spaces. Another noteworthy newbie is Portale, an outstanding American-Italian eatery created by much acclaimed chef Alfred Portale and ensconced in a renovated carriage house. At the finest Chinese restaurants there had traditionally been a restrained elegance, but with the arrival of Hutong from Hong Kong, all of that has been replaced with exciting excess. Theatrical magic abounds, with dishes to match. Pastis, a former Meatpacking District bistro, is back with a bang, its fare beyond fabulous. At Frenchette, a casual setting is coupled with outstandingly prepared dishes. Avra Madison is packed—and deservedly so. Perry St’s fantastic food just seems to get better and better. Renowned for its classic red-sauce Italian cooking and outsize portions, Carbone continues to deliver the goods with efficiently brusque waiters and movie-perfect “Little Italy” decor. The veal Parmesan is perfection. Gabriel Kreuther’s haute cuisine has a distinctive Alsatian flavor and is impeccably served in a casually elegant, modern setting. Vaucluse successfully recreates the kind of French restaurant that was once so prevalent with its flawless service, exquisite offerings and reassuringly refined atmosphere.
SPECIAL:
abc with Jean-Georges—In vogue with vegans, vegetarians and everyone else who craves creative, appetizing plant-based meals.
Al Vaporetto—Venetian fare that will have you floating on a sea of satisfaction.
BEAUTIFUL BURGERS:
Au Cheval / BK Jani / Café Altro Paradiso / Corner Bistro / 4 Charles Prime Rib / The Happiest Hour / Jeepney / J.G. Melon / Minetta Tavern / Shake Shack.
Portale: Carpaccio short rib, arugula Pecorino Pepato and anchovy caper emulsion.
Jamel ToppinBEST BBQ:
Fette Sau / Hill Country / Hometown Bar-B-Que / John Brown Smokehouse / Mighty Quinn’s.
Bistrot Leo—Close your eyes and the fantastic food will have you thinking you’re in Paris.
Brasserie Cognac East—Classic French brasserie serving sublime traditional fare, with 50-plus cognacs to choose from. Vive la France!
Café Centro—Ideal Midtown locale for a fine breakfast.
Canal Street Oysters—The fresh oysters (13 or so varieties on offer) deliver on their plump, briny promise, and the wine list is a wine-lover’s delight.
Cote: Korean BBQ
Tim-PannellCote—A “scene” restaurant in the Flatiron district, this Korean steak house offers all kinds of steak, from hanger to 110-day-plus aged cuts, cooked for you at your table’s grill.
E.A.T.—Thank heavens this excellent old-world deli never changes.
The Fulton—Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first seafood restaurant, occupying two glass-enclosed floors on the tip of the pier at the new South Street Seaport development, is a real catch.
GupShup—“Hip” and “cool” are not usually associated with Indian eateries, nor are bold-toned, multicolored walls. Best of all is the creative menu offering a delightful, delicious evening.
Lamalo—Fans love the $25 Daily Spread, which starts with a colossal piece of laffa, a blistery Middle Eastern flatbread strewn with savory spices, and is followed by many small, sensational dishes from a rotating menu. All of these keep coming until you tell them to stop.
L’Amico—Created by the world-renowned Laurent Tourondel, this eatery offers uniquely prepared Italian fare, especially impeccable pizzas.
La Vara—A cross-pollination of Moorish, Jewish and Spanish cuisines may sound like the end result of a culinary shotgun wedding, but this hot spot puts out an arresting array of unfussy comfort food with a Mediterranean twist.
Maialino: Lamb chop Scottadita with charred fennel and green onion agrodolce.
Suzana HalliliL’Avenue—This new, eye-popping, two-story (one floor evocative of a lodge, the other a night club) restaurant at Saks is infinitely more than a place to grab a bite while shopping. The menu is filled with such enticements as a luscious lobster pasta and a spicy Thai beef filet with a savory ginger-sesame dipping sauce.
Le Jardinier—Steeped in the luxury food traditions of France and Japan, chef Alain Verzeroli’s offerings are alluring. The desserts are sensational.
Llama San—Peruvian-Japanese is definitely a new category for us, and, happily, this fusion fare is fabulous.
Marc Forgione—Tribeca’s dimly lit, hearty commissary for connoisseurs with big wallets. Worth a visit just for the lobster festooned with chili sauce served over Texas toast.
Milk Bar—Be prepared to wait on long lines to enter this huge haven on Broadway for heavenly desserts that you can precisely personalize.
PIZZA PERFECTION:
Bleecker Street Pizza / Di Fara / Emily / Joe’s / John’s of Bleecker Street / Kesté / Lions & Tigers & Squares / Numero 28 Pizzeria / Prince Street Pizza / Roberta’s / Rubirosa / San Matteo / Scarr’s Pizza.
The Polo Bar—Fine setting for first-class food and drink.
Uncle Boons—Get a culinary high on this version of Thai fare in a supercool, seductive setting.
Wayla—This way cool Lower East Side eatery serves up delicious, self-described “Homestyle Thai Food” in a casual yet stylish setting.
Left: Wayla's Pork meatballs in crispy noodles. Right: Hudson Yards Grill's Hasselback potatoes
Jamel ToppinHUDSON YARDS:
Hudson Yards Grill—Perfect American brasserie in the midst of Hudson Yards’ recently opened, dizzying 20 new restaurants and food shops. Michael Lomonaco’s entry has something for everyone, all at reasonable prices.
Mercado Little Spain—Famed chef José Andrés’ panoramic tribute to the multifaceted glories of Spanish cuisine. Go and sample!
Momofuku Kāwi—Located in the Yard’s farthest inner reaches, Kāwi goes all the way on Korean influences, especially the kimbap.
Wild ink—The setting is sleek and modern, the menu stimulating. The perfect finish: pineapple upside-down cake.
Nippon: Beef negimayaki, a dish specially created for Malcolm Forbes
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